S/S 13 Prada

Day 2 of Milan Fashion Week and the Italians are out in force. Miuccia Prada however chose some of her French counterpart’s music to accompany her show. It was that typical kind of French Music sung by a female vocalist, some moans and groans singing her blues. An unusual choice.

The initial colour palate was a bit dull with blacks and varying shades coming out on top. Like we saw yesterday there was a resurgence in the 1960’s with that boxy kind of silhouette featuring widely throughout. However it wasn’t just an ordinary 60’s resurgence, this time it was infused with an oriental twist.

Asian flowers packed a punch creeping slyly up the front of garments and twirling gracefully against their plain backdrop. It was an interesting idea as the fusion of Orientalism with the 60’s silhouette became reminiscent of the good old “flower power” that decade was known for.

As like many a catwalk this season, including Gucci’s yesterday there were was an inspiring emphasis on collars from round neck to mandarin collars, it was one feature that designers have been using to inject a bit of oomph and colour into an otherwise dull set of apparel.

The hair was was also reminiscent of the 60’s with bedhead hair piled high in a bouffant. That sort of sexy, just woke-up hair that ravaged the follicles of many during that fun decade.

The orange-red lipstick also kept in-line with the oriental twist, similar to the bright shades of the 60’s. A very clever and unusual mixture it has to be said.

There was a futuristic element in the show today with metallic boots and a satin effect in some instances that was more extra-terrestrial than elegant.

Unlike most other designers, there was not much variety in silhouette during this collection with a boxy, over-sized form predominantly featuring.

An unusual moment occurred when fur featured on the spring catwalk. Designers these days seem to be plugging their way more and more towards a somewhat warmer wardrobe perhaps it is to combat the possibility of another dull summer that accounted for disappointing sales last season.

A beautiful lithe model donned a sporty play suit that finally lifted the uninteresting palate that had previously pervaded the collection.

The show altogether was an inconsistent mix of unusual choices, clever combinations and colourless catwalk.

The music which during the start of the show that had seemed inspiringly modern was on repeat which became largely noticeable towards the end of the show. It begins to become boring and weird. The French Woman echoes an eery cackle that makes my spine shiver.

Finally the show ends on a loud moan by La Francaise.

It is painful to watch the models descending in impossibly impractical footwear (yes, it’s art but don’t make them walk down the stairs!!). They are concentrating so hard on not to fall that they look like zombies. The final scene looks like a horror film with their pale skin, pained expressions and odd garb against a stark background.

Perhaps it was the setting that made the show so unappealing or the music or even just the futuristic twist. This show was clearly designed to embody an Asian essence. Obviously Prada are seeking to continue their prospects in the East. But it is no wonder. The Wall Street Journal reports that Prada’s “sharp focus” on Asia boosted profit by a whopping 72% recently. Good luck with that Prada but I certainly won’t endeavour to be purchasing or admiring this collection. A successful designer has a universal appeal.

They might have more money but that doesn’t mean they have more taste.


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